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  PFO LED lighting for the aquarium trade the wave of the future. Click on the above link to see a G series PFO Solaris the new i4 lights are 60% brighter. The aquarium hobby has had the choice of two major forms of lighting for the salt water aquarium, fluorescent tubes/ power compacts, and metal halides. Fluorescent /Power Compact lights have been used on soft coral type reefs where lighting needs are low. Hard coral reefs keepers that have SPS/LPS type corals however, have used metal halide bulbs because of the intense light they put out. Many reef keepers have supplemented metal halide lighting with actinic power compact lights for a couple of reasons - to supply the 20,000k blue light which satisfies the light needs of symbiotic algae, and to give night moon light effect ,for night creature viewing using multi timers. The light we will use for our purposes as a standerd is PFO high output LED's (Solaris/Galileo vs. Metal Halide lighting. Metal halide has been the light of choice for hard coral reef keepers because of its high light output. Metal halide bulbs are now available in 10000K, 15000K, and 20000K. (K = Kelvin = which is the color temperature of the light.) The higher the Kelvin rating the more blue light is the lower more white. For power output and Kelvin selectivity there hasn't been a rival until now. The new light is high power LED lighting. What is a high powered LED? That's where PFO comes in; there are two LED arrays available at the moment both new and more powerful than ever before. Last year's models were rated at ‘250' watts and ‘400' watts, the most popular wattages for reef aquariums. The new PFO models out in November the I4 Solaris reef light and the Galileo made to replace Fluorescent/VHO/Power Compact lighting are the best choices in my book. The new Solaris is 30% brighter than last year's model. In LED lights the array is contained in a rectangular metal housing that hangs or stands on legs above the aquarium. The sizes range from 24" to 72" the lighting color is arranged as follows, blue, white LEDS and a few greens). The Kelvin rating of the new Solaris LED's is 15K, so it is just as suitable for soft corals and hard corals. A micro computer lets you adjust the light (more blue or more white) as you choose something you can't do with a metal halide. That's a great advantage, LED's equal metal halides in color output. Metal halide and power compact bulbs need to be changed at least once a year due to a light intensity reduction and spectrum shift with age. This expense easily pays for the higher cost upfront of a LED light. The LED lights can last for up to 50.000 hours before putting in a new bank of lights. LED's can run for 11 years if you figure in 12 hour days! It is reported that there is a reduction of light intensity of 30% after that period 50.000. That means that 70% of usable light is still there after 11 years. One of the major factors with metal halides is heat output. The radiated heat from the halide bulb transfers heat to the aquarium seawater. This makes it much harder to regulate the water temp through the season's summer- winter-day-night. In a closed area (your house) temperature must be regulated by air conditioning or a chiller which costs you more in electricity and the expensive cost of a chiller. The LED units run much cooler barely warm to the touch. PFO LED lights are cooled by internal fans. There is very little heat transfer to the seawater. Another feather for the LED light. Metal halide bulbs emit UV radiation and need a UV shield to protect the corals.There is almost no UV radiation from Led's. This stops UV light bleaching of corals another plus for the LED light. LED's also produce (flash of sunlight or glitter lines in the tank like metal halides.PFO LED Solaris lights a digital micro computer that will allow the light output to be adjusted for full sunlight, sunset or moonlight you can even have a cloud come by and set the duration of the reduced lighting.........Cool! Metal halides use a lot of electricity this can be expensive. Solaris lights use 40% less than an equal wattage metal halide. Here is another plus green living, use less electricity replaces less bulbs and grow your own reef. See a working G model click on link Above. Neil Bennett......Forbidden Reef Aquatics..Forbiddenreef.com online PFO Solaris Data Each 12" section of hood has 25-Next Generation 4 Watt LEDs for a total of 100Watts per foot. The LEDs are mounted 5 LEDs per circuit board. If one LED fails then the 5 LED board needs to be replaced. This circuit board replacement is designed to be performed in the field if needed. Actinic Blue Daylight Full Spectrum White Actinic Blue Night Light Full Spectrum White Night Total LED's/Foot 15K 6 9 6 4 25 During Daylight all LEDs, including Night Lights, are on. Each of the four groups of LEDs can be independently dimmed from 0-100%. Power Supply The fixture has an 8' cable with quick disconnect for each required power supply. This cable can not be extended beyond 8'. The power supply cable comes off the back left hand side of fixture. It does not come out of the end. The input is 60/50Hz with selectable voltage of 120V or 230V. All power in the hood is 12V DC. The power supply is powder coated black. The power supply is cooled via a fan. Caution: Water can enter power supply through cooling fan. Mount via wall mounting holes or set on dry surface. Dimensions: 6.75"L x 6.25"W x 3.75" H Length Width Height LED Wattage Power Supply Fans 14" 8.7" 3.65" 100W 1 4 24" 8.7" 3.65" 200W 1 4 36" 8.7" 3.65" 300W 2 4 46.5" 8.7" 3.65" 400W 2 4 59.5" 8.7" 3.65" 500W 3 4 71.5" 8.7" 3.65" 600W 3 4 Fixture Cooling Air needs to circulate through the fixture.If mounting in canopy, ensure there is air flow to the fans on each end of the fixture. The control board has a thermometer on board which will turn off the fixture if the LEDs get too hot. This will happen prior to any damage to the LEDs. The LCD will display a message stating the fixture became too hot. If this happens improve the air flow to the fans. Mounting The fixture can be mounted with, mounting feet which are supplied on tank, supplied eye hooks, or with optional pendant hanging kit. It is preferred to mount in the open air, but mounting inside canopy is fine as long as adequate ventilation is available to the fans. Ensure that the temperature stays between 70F and 110F. The cooler, the better. Housing/Lens The housing is extruded aluminum. The splash lens is acrylic. DO NOT remove acrylic lens because it exposes the LED board to saltwater splash and salt creep. Control Board/LCD Display All units include the control board with LCD input module. The LCD display has a step through menu to program the Auto settings. There is also a manual mode to bypass the auto setting to temporarily adjust light output of each of the LED strings. (This feature is to observe the tank under different color variations like 6.5k or actinic blue only). The only way to interface to the control board is through the LCD push button display. Auto Settings (these may change slightly): Current Time 8AM Sunrise Options Default Settings Sunrise Start Time 8AM Sunrise Time Length Blue 30 min Sunrise Time Length White 30 min Sunrise Time Length Night Blue Lights 30 min Sunrise Time Length Night White Lights 30 min Daylight OptionsDaylight % Blues 100% Daylight % Whites 100% Daylight % Blue Night Lights 100% Daylight % White Night Lights 100% Cloud Cover% decrease from Daylight Full Brightness 0 Frequency between Clouds Length of Cloud cover Sunset Options Default Settings Sunset Start Time 7:00 PM Sunset Time Length Blue 90 min Sunset Time Length White 30 min Sunset Time Length Blue Night Lights 90 min Sunset Time Length White Night Lights 30 min Night Settings Night Start Time 8:30PM Night Start Time 8:30PM Length of Night Lights 700 min Night % Blues 0 Night % Whites 0 Night % Blue Night Lights 10% Night % White Night Lights 0% Set for 28 Day Moon Cycle ON PFO warrants the Solaris fixtures for two years.


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Saturday, August 9, 2008
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